One
of the main sources of Anjuna's enduring popularity as a hippy hang out
is its superb beach. Fringed by groves of swaying coconut palms, the
curve of soft white sand conforms more closely to the archetypal vision
of paradise than any other beach on the north coast. Bathing is
generally safer than at most of the nearby resorts, too, especially at
the more peaceful southern end, where a rocky headland keeps the sea
calm and the undertow to a minimum.
North of the market
ground, the beach broadens, running in an uninterrupted kilometre long
stretch of steeply shelving sand to a low red cliff. The village bus
park lies on top of this high ground, near a crop of small cafes, bars
and Kashmiri handicraft stalls. Every lunch hour, tour parties from
Panjim pull in here for a beer, before heading home again, leaving the
ragged army of sun weary westerners to enjoy the sunset.The Visiting
Season
The season in Anjuna
starts in early November, when most of the long staying regulars show
up, and peters out in late March, when they drift off again. During the
Christmas and New Year rush, the village is inundated with a mixed crowd
of round the world backpackers, refugees from the British club scene and
revellers from all over India, lured by the promise of the big beach
parties.
Outside peak season,
however, Anjuna has a surprisingly simple unhurried atmosphere- due, in
no small part, to the shortage of places to stay. Most visitors who come
here on market day or for the raves travel in from other resorts. That
said, a couple of large package tour hotels have appeared over the past
couple of years, and this is bound to radically alter the mix of
visitors here.
LEISURE
NIGHTLIFE
Thanks to the kill-joy
attitude reputation, Anjuna is a rave-venue for big parties that take
place over here from time to time, especially around the Christmas-New
Year full moon period. Smaller events may also happen whenever some
occasion or celebration comes up.
At other times, nightlife
centres on the Shore Bar, in the middle of the beach, which has a
pounding sound system. The biggest crowds show up accompanied by the
latest ambient trance mixes from London. The music gains pace as the
evening wears on winding up around 11.00 pm, when there's an exodus over
to the Guru Bar, further up the beach, or to the Primrose Café in
Vagator, both of which stay open until after midnight.
Musical Amusements
When it eventually gets
it act together, The Alcove, over looking Ozran Vagator Beach, will be
another worthwhile nightspot. More mainstream musical entertainment is
on offer at Temptations, in the Red Cab Inn just below Starco's
crossroads, where Indian classical recitals and guitar based cover bands
feature with fire dancers on Mondays, starting at 7.00 pm.HOW TO GET
THERE
Road: Buses from Mapusa
and Panjim drop passengers at various points along the Tarmac Road
across the top of the village, which turns right towards Chapora at the
Main Starco's crossroads. The Starco's crossroads has a couple of small
stores, a motorcycle taxi rank, and functions as a de facto village
square and bus stand.
PLACES TO STAY
Most of Anjuna's very
limited accommodation consists of small-unfurnished houses. Some of the
resorts and guesthouse can be found at the main Starco's crossroads
area. But the best choice for accommodation is available in Calangute,
Baga or nearby Vagator or Chapora.
EATING OUT
Both the beachfront and
village at Anjuna are awash with good places to eat and drink. Most are
simple semi open air, thatched palm leaf affairs, specializing in fish
and western food. All serve cold beer, invariably with thumping techno
music in the background. On the beach, one'll also be approached every
ten minutes by women selling fresh fruit, including watermelons,
pineapples and locally grown coconuts.
