A Charming
Combination Of Land And Sea
Baga, 10-km west of Mapusa, is basically an extension of
Calangute; even the locals are unable to decide where ends and the
other begin. Lying in the lee of a rocky, wooded headland, the only
difference between this far northern end of the beach and its more
congested centre is that the scenery here is marginally more varied
and picturesque.
A small river flows
into the sea at the top of the village, below a broad spur of soft
white sand, from where a dirt track strikes across an expanse of
paddy fields towards Anjuna. The old red tiled fishers houses behind
the dunes have long been swamped by gaudily lit bars, Tandoori
terrace restaurants and handicraft shops, but one doesn't feel quite
so hemmed in as at Calangute.
PLACES TO STAY
The rough-and-ready
places dotted around the fishing village usually have space for
accommodation. Reasonable budget houses and rooms for rent are also
available on the quieter north side of the river.
LEISURE
EATING OUT
Baga has arguably the
best range of restaurants in Goa, from standard beach shacks to
swish pizzerias and terrace cafes serving real espresso coffee.
Because of the stiff competition, prices are generally reasonable
and the quality of cooking high. For a splurge, splash out on a
candlelit dinner at J & A's Riverside Trattoria, or a
traditional Goan meal at the eccentric Casa Portuguesa.
NIGHTLIFE
Thanks to the droves
of predominantly British package tourists who stay here, Baga's
nightlife is the liveliest in the area. Most of the revellers end up
at Tito's, which has the only dance floor and hefty sound system
outside a big hotel for miles. Women are allowed in for free;
"unaccompanied" men and couples have to pay.
