A Legend
Jammu, the Duggar land where the past still has a living presence. A
land of grand ancient temples, and beautiful palaces, all nestling in
the foothills of the Himalayas. It is said that, on becoming King, the
Suryavanshi Jambu Lochan went on a hunt and, crossing the Tawi, found a
deer and a tiger drinking water from the same tank. His ministers
explained that this meant that the soil of the place was so virtuous
that no living creature bore enmity against another.
Raja Jambu Lochan, who lived in the later Vedic period, decided to found
his capital , Jambupura, on his soil, on the right bank of the Tawi,
overlooking his brother king Bahu's fort. Today the temple of Maha Kali,
better known as "Bahu" or "Bawey Wali Mata", located
in the Bahu Fort, is considered second only to Mata Vaishno Devi in
terms of mystical power. The present temple was built shortly after the
coronation of Maharaja Gulab Singh, in 1822. The existing fort, as well
as the Manasabdar's palace inside it, was constructed in 1820.
History
Legend has it that Jamboo Loochen founded the city about three thousand
years ago. The Raja was hunting in the area, away from his capital city
of Bahu when he came across a lion and a goat drinking from the same
pond. The Shivadawala Shrine now stands on this spot in the city. Jammu
is known as 'the city of temples' because of its many shrines, with
their soaring golden spires or 'Shikhars'.
There are many other shrines and temples around the city and environs
that date from earlier years but the recorded history of Jammu begins
from the time of the Dogra rulers in the early 19th century. In 1846 the
Dogra ruler of Jammu was created Maharaja of an ill-defined Himalayan
kingdom, 'to the eastward of the river Indus and westward of the river
Ravi', by the treaties of Lahore and Amritsar at the conclusion of the
first Sikh war.
It was the lack of definition of this state - the forerunner of Jammu
and Kashmir - that caused the continuing disputes with Russia and China
over territory. The British created the state as part of a complex
political buffer zone between their Indian Empire and China and Russia.
For the Maharaja Gulab Singh, the treaty confirmed for him almost 25
years of fighting and negotiation with the small hill tribes along the
northern border of the Sikh Empire, centred on the Punjab. The region
remained under Dogra rule until the partition of India in 1947, when
Hari Singh, the then Maharaja of Kashmir, decided that it would remain
as part of India and the state of Jammu & Kashmir was born.
Ranbir
Canal
A small garden
along the Ranbir Canal, which runs through the city outskirts, provides
a cool picnic spot during the summer. The canal branches off from the
river Chenab at Akhnoor, 32 kms away. Its water remains icy-cold
throughout the year and its banks serve as good viewpoints and walkways.
Bahu
Fort & Gardens
Situated 5 kms
away from the city centre, Bahu Fort stands on a rock face on the left
bank of the river Tawi.
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View of
Bahu Gardens (Bagh-e-Bahu)
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Perhaps the
oldest fort and edifice in the city, it was constructed originally by
Raja Bahulochan over 3,000 years ago.
The existing fort
was more recently improved upon and extended by the Dogra rulers.
Inside, there is a temple dedicated to the Hindu goddess Kali. An
extensive terraced garden, known as Bagh-e-Bahu, has been
developed around the fort.
Mahamaya
Temple and City Forest
On the bypass
Road, behind Bahu Fort, the city forest surrounds the ancient Mahamaya
temple overlooking the river Tawi. A small garden surrounded by acres of
woods provides the best view of the city.
Mubarak
Mandi Palace
The oldest
buildings in this palace complex date back to 1824. The architecture is
a blend of Rajasthani, Mughal and even baroque elements. The most
stunning segment is the Sheesh Mahal. "The Pink Hall"
houses the Dogra Art Museum which has miniature paintings of the
various Hill Schools.
Other
places of worship
Christian
-
Garrison
Church, Satwari.
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St. Paul’s
Church, Wazarat Road, Jammu.
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St. Peter’s
Church, Christian Colony, Jammu.
Muslim
-
Jamia Masjid,
Talab Khatikan.
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Jamia Masjid,
Ustad Mohalla.
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Jamia Masjid,
Gole Market.
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Ibrahim
Masjid, Wazarat Road.
Sikh
-
Sunder Singh
Gurudwara, Gurudwara Road.
-
Tali Sahib
Gurudwara, Talab Tillo.
-
Maharani
Chand Kaur Gurudwara, below Gumat.
-
Gurudwara
Singh Sabha, Nanak Nagar.
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Kalgidhar
Gurudwara, Rehari.
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Singh Sabha
Gurudwara, Raghunath Bazaar.
Forts
and Palaces
On the opposite
bank of the Tawi river, on an upland plateau, is situated the majestic Bahu
Fort, the oldest edifice extant in the region. Looking at this fort
one can imagine the wars fought, invasions prevented, and yes, even the
grandeur the royal family must have enjoyed at the time. Today it is
surrounded by a lush green terraced garden, with waterfalls and flowers
of just about every kind and colour. It is a favourite picnic spot for
the city folk.
The Amar Mahal
Palace, a sight to behold, is on an eyrie overlooking the Tawi
river. This grand palace, with sloping roofs and tall towers, so
characteristic of continental castles, reminds one of France. The palace
has been converted into a museum which also houses the city’s finest
library of antique books and paintings. An entire series of miniatures
on the epic Nal-Damayanti can be seen in the museum.
Old Bazaars and Designer boutiques
There are two
charmingly contradictory aspects to the city of Jammu which one can see
while shopping. For instance, in the crowded streets of Raghunath
Bazaar, among the age-old dry fruit shops, you’ll find designer
boutiques that display the very latest in fashion and fashion
accessories.
Here the main
bazaars – Vir Marg, Raghunath Bazaar and Hari Market – are famous
for Kashmiri handicrafts, traditional Dogra jewellery and various dry
fruits, chiefly walnuts (‘akhrot’) and almonds. Jammu is also known
for the superlative quality of its ‘basmati’ rice, ‘rajma’ (red
beans), ‘ampapar’ (dried and candied mango peel), ‘anardana’
(dried pomegranate seeds) and ‘barfi’ (milk sweets).For purchasing
authentic Kashmiri handicrafts, one can visit the J&K Government
Arts Emporium near the Tourist Reception Centre on Residency Road.
The emporium displays and sells a wide variety of handicrafts, including
Pashmina shawls and exquisite hand-knotted carpets of silk and
wool.