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Location
: On Palani Hills, Near Madurai, Tamil Nadu
Deity Worshipped: Sri Dandayuthapani (Lord
Muruga)
Popular Practice of Pilgrims: Carrying
Kavadis
Important Festivals Celebrated: Panguni
Utharam in March - April And Thaipusam Festival
The hill temple
of Lord Muruga as Sri Dandayuthapani in Palani near Madurai is one of
the most popular of Tamil Nadu fanes, dates from a remote past. It
stands on a hill that is an offshoot of the Western Ghats, and there are
some other hills nearby. From the temple, which stands at the summit
about 150 metres high, there is a beautiful panorama of forests to
admire.
At the foot of
the hill there is an even more ancient temple, also dedicated to Lord
Muruga and is called the "Tiruavinnakudi Temple", it is the
third of the "arupadai veedus", or the Six Abodes of Lord
Muruga, as mentioned in a Tamil poem of the first century of the
Christian era, "Tirumurugarruppadai". The other five are
Tirupparankundram, Tiruchendur, Swamimalai, Tiruttani and
Pazhamuthircholai (on Azhagarkoil hills).
The Origin Of
The Temple
Tradition tells
the temple's origin. Once Agastya wished to take away Shivagiri, the
hill on which the temple stands, and Sakthigiri in its vicinity, to
where he was living farther in the south. He directed a disciple of his,
Idumban, to carry them on his shoulders, one at each end, slung to a
pole in the form called "Kavadi".
At this stage,
Lord Shiva on Kailasa, had offered a pomegranate as a prize to whichever
of His sons, Lord Ganesh and Lord Muruga, could go round the world
quicker. Lord Muruga, astride His vehicle, the peacock, set off at a
great pace. But Lord Ganesh merely walked around His parents. He said
that, as they were the Universe, He was walking around them. The claim
was conceded and the prize was awarded to Him. On hearing this Lord
Muruga was frustrated and left Kailasa for the south. His parents
attempted to dissuade Him, saying "Pazham Nee" which means in
Tamil, "Thou art thyself the fruit of all wisdom and
knowledge". But He was not appeased and went to Tiruavinankudi.
Later He moved into the temple at the top of the hill.
Meanwhile,
Idumban set down his "Kavadi" near Palani in order to take
rest. When, after some time he attempted to bear it on his shoulders
again, he found that he could not. A boy carrying a baton wandered
along. An altercation ensued between this boy, who was Lord Muruga, and
Idumban. In this Idumban was killed. But the Lord restored him to life.
At his request He ordained that those who carry "Kavadis" to
His temples in fulfilment of vows should be blessed.
The tradition
accounts for the presence of the Lord in the temple as Boy baton in
hand, for the popular name of the hill as "Palani" and for the
practice of pilgrims carrying "Kavadis". This practice obtains
not only in Palani but also in the other temples of Lord Muruga. There
is a shrine to Idumban on the hill.
About The
Temple
The temple has
seven inscriptions. None has a bearing on its origin. But tradition
ascribes it to a Siddha named Bogar, believed to be a junior
contemporary of Agastya (Siddhas had supernatural powers and performed
miracles). Cheraman Perumal, the royal Kerala saint is believed to have
constructed the Sanctum and the Ardhamandapa. If this tradition is
correct, the structural beginnings of the temple should be dated to the
eighth century. In two places in the temple there are sculptures of a
royal personality. In succeeding times the temple was expanded by the
Nayaks of Madurai and by the local chiefs. The Nagarattars performed
many renovations in recent times.
Rock hewn steps
used to lead from the foot of the hill to the top, but now there are 697
stone steps. Since 1966 a haulage winch transports the pilgrims. On
either side of the pathway there are shrines and Mandapas at frequent
intervals. At the entrance to the temple there is an extensive
quadrangle. The temple is set at an spacious Prakara, which contains
many structures. Two of the Mandapas, the Navaranga and the Paravel
Mandapas, are of great beauty, with many attractive pillars.
Interesting
Features
The image of the
Lord is made of nine kinds of medicinal minerals. What is remarkable is
that the millions of Abishekas, or oblations poured on the image, down
the centuries have had no effect on it. On the contrary, the Abisheka
materials gain in medicinal properties from contact with the image and
are prized by physicians. In particular the sandal paste, which is left
on the image overnight, is a wonder drug. Every bit of it is used. In
the southwestern corridor of the temple there is a shrine to Bogar, whom
the pilgrim is enjoined to worship.
Around the hill
runs a sacred path, about a mile long. Mandapas stand along side, with
large lithic figures of the peacock, the Lord's mount. Perambulating the
hill is considered a holy act. Many pilgrims have their heads tonsured.
Festivals
Celebrated
Palani and
festivals are synonymous. The most important festival is "Panguni
Utharam" in March - April on the day Utharam Star (Nakshatra) is
ascendent. This 10-day event at the Tiruavinnakudi Temple, at the foot
of the hill occurs in the off-season and so agriculturists and other
rural folk participate in it and give offerings of paddy to the temple.
About five lakh people attend the festival.
Some of the
monthly Karthigais draw a crowd of one lakh. The Karthigai Deepam and
Vaikasi Visakam get two lakhs of persons each. The same may be said of
Skanda Sasthi. Three lakhs persons attend the Thaipusam festival.
HOW TO GET
THERE
Air: Madurai is
the nearest airport, at a distance of 119-km.
Rail: The temple
is about 5-km from the railway station on the Dindugal - Coimbatore line
of the Southern Railway.
Road: There are
bus services from all the major towns in Tamil Nadu as well as from the
adjoining state of Kerala to Palani. Taxis, auto-rickshaws and tongas
are available for local transportation.
WHERE TO STAY
Accommodation is
available at the moderate and economy class hotels, lodges, Devasthanam
cottages and choultries in Palani.
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